Nordkalottleden (South)

Arrival and departure / Drop-off points

There are direct train services from Abisko station to Narvik, Kiruna (airport) and Stockholm.

There are regular buses from Sulitjelma to Fauske. From there, trains run to Trondheim and Bodø (airport).

During the season, there is also a ferry service from Vaisaluokta to Ritsem, with a bus connection to Gällivare. (Ferry timetables and fares)

Another way to get there is by taking the ferry from Kjøpsvik and Drag to Hellemobotn (which runs every Thursday and Friday in summer; for the latest timetable, search for route “18-585 Tysfjord”). From there, a well-marked hiking trail of around 8 km leads to the E1.

Otherwise, the path runs far from civilisation. The only place you come across a farm track is at Sitas, but I didn’t see a single car there.

Lodging situation

All huts on Norwegian territory belong to DNT Narvik. Accessible all year round with a DNT key.

Abiskojaure, Unna Allakas, Vaisaluokta and Kutjaure are STF-run huts, but they are not cheap (see the price list here). Outside the season, only an emergency shelter is available (for season dates, see the relevant links).

Sårjåsjaure is an unstaffed STF hut (not particularly cosy; for a slightly higher price, Sorjushytta, 10 km away, is considerably more comfortable). Open all year round.

The huts along the Padjelanta Glacier (from Låddejåhkå to Stáddájåhkå) are maintained by the Badjelánnda Laponia Turism (BLT) association. Open all year round. During the high season, the huts are staffed (see the website for prices and season dates).

Kårsåjaure and Rávddajávrre are basic emergency huts (no stove, no mattresses, space for 2–3 people) provided by the Norrbotten County Council; they are intended for overnight stays only in an emergency. They are ideal for a lunch break.

It is not possible to complete a hut-to-hut trek along the entire route due to the 55 km stage. To do so, you would need to take the shortcut via Ritsem and Hukejaure (see below).

Shopping facilities

There are supermarkets in Abisko and Sulitjelma with a good selection of goods.

In between, there are several ways to stock up on provisions, though they aren’t always cheap. Here are the shopping options along the way in detail:

• The STF huts in Abiskojaure and Unna Allakas have a food shop during the season. (Product range and prices)
• The BLT huts also sell food during the season.
• During the BLT season, there is also a small kiosk in Staloluokta.
• At the STF Vandrahem in Ritsem there is a small shop selling food at slightly more reasonable prices, but due to the ferry crossing, this option is only of interest to hikers who are travelling via Ritsem anyway.

A good compromise for those on a tight budget might be to set off with enough provisions for 260 km and stock up in Unna Allakas or Staloluokta for the final stretch. However, even with supplies available en route, planning provisions remains a challenge; in any case, there are 190 km between Unna Allakas and Låddejåhkå to cover without the possibility of restocking.

Alternative routes

In this section, the E1 winds its way through a dense network of footpaths. Below are just the main options.

• Gautelis – Hukejaure – Sitasjaure – Ritsem – ferry to Vaisaluokta. This is one way to organise a hut-to-hut hike, with the option to stock up on supplies in Ritsem. However, you’ll miss out on a breathtaking section of the E1.
• Røysvatn – Ritsem – Vaisaluokta (via Gränsleden north of Akkajaure and ferry). This allows for shopping in Ritsem.
• Abiskojaure – Alesjaure – Tjäkta – Sälka – Hukejaure – Gautelis. This alternative takes a wide detour around the unpleasant scree slope west of the Caihnavaggihytta. A small detour; with this alternative, you would follow the Nordkalottleden for the entire section.
• Riksgränsen – Unna Allakas. This route is slightly shorter and avoids the crowds on the Kungsleden. There is a supermarket and a railway station in Riksgränsen. On foot, you can continue the journey along marked paths via Stordalsstua and Bones, rejoining the E1 at Lappjordhytta.
• Bjørnfjell (bus stop) – Katterat (railway station) – Hunddalen – Cunojavri. Similar to the previous route, but on the Norwegian side of the border, particularly of interest to those who enjoy Norwegian mountain huts. This would involve following the Nordlandsruta for the entire section. However, the E1 offers more scenic beauty.
• Last but not least, the Kungsleden itself should also be mentioned as an option (further south, it is said to be much less busy than in the tourist hotspot around Abisko). Hemavan is about 30 km by road from Krutvasshytta (stage 05.21).

Section description

The first stage follows the Kungsleden, which is noticeable for its significantly higher number of hikers and the unusually luxurious provision of boardwalks. The entire stage runs through Abisko National Park; on stage 04.01, camping is only permitted at designated sites (there are plenty of such sites, but they are also very popular with fellow hikers).

Right next to the Abiskojaure hut, the E1 leaves the Kungsleden and turns unobtrusively westwards into a short stretch of woodland, where you’ll find another narrow footpath. It’s much quieter here, and you can enjoy the view of the mountains stretching out before you.

Overall, the first four stages are fairly easy to manage. It is only towards the end of the fourth stage that there is a bit of an uphill climb. Away from the Kungsleden, the signposting is rather sparse, but the footpath is well-trodden.

Things get tricky after the Caihnavaggihytta! The fifth stage begins with a scree slope about 2 km long, which you have to climb up to the pass, including some fairly steep sections. Caution is advised on this section, especially in wet conditions! Markings in the form of stone pyramids are in place and were repainted red in 2019, so navigation is generally quite straightforward. Once you reach the pass, the terrain is more pleasant, though still stony. The descent also leads across a scree slope, but this is shorter and less steep. (Both routes – both the official route to Gautelishytta and the direct link to Skoaddejavrehytta – lead across scree with sparse markings. The official fork in the path is marked with an unlabelled but clearly visible signpost.)

Once past the second scree slope, you’ll find yourself walking along a high plateau for a while; the walk becomes noticeably more pleasant here, with relatively easy-going terrain and magnificent views.

About 6 km past Skoaddejavrihytta, you descend from the plateau. The section is short but steep and quite challenging, though it is very well marked. You come out directly onto the farm track, which you follow as far as Sitashytta.

Between Sitas and Vaisaluokta, the route becomes very isolated. Despite the impressive scenery, it seems that only long-distance hikers find their way out here. Stage 04.08 takes you over two gentle passes across moderately stony terrain. The markings aren’t always perfect, but they’re perfectly adequate.

The former "rowboat bridge" at the start of stage 04.09 has now been replaced by a proper bridge. From the bridge that follows, markings are very sparse or non-existent. However, the stage is largely “foolproof” and follows the lake shores. Only the last 3 km from the final lake to Røysvatnhytta are difficult to navigate. Furthermore, extensive snowfields are to be expected in this area well into the summer.

Stage 04.10: The first 23 km are tough going. The terrain is quite rugged and at times quite stony. Markings are sparse (you’ll find Norwegian markings here on Swedish territory, albeit in the usual ‘Norwegian’ quantity). At times I even had the impression that the few markers present didn’t always recommend the most sensible route over or around the hills. At km 23, you then come across the well-trodden path coming from Hellemobotn; from here on, the terrain poses no further problems. Between km 20 and km 26 (the prominent tip in the south-west), I was able to take a shortcut across country without any problems. [The shortcut may be problematic if the river is in flood. You should also keep an eye out for the marshy areas; these are, however, clearly marked on the Swedish map.] For the last 15 km, the E1 runs below the tree line; camping here is difficult to impossible! A nice spot for a tent is located at km 31 (GPS 67°47’32”N 16°53’52”E).

The eleventh stage is a bit rocky again and begins with a short but steep climb just beyond the small village of Vaisaluokta. However, we won’t see a single tree again until we reach Sulitjelma. From here, the path is once again excellently equipped with boardwalks; a little later, the E1 meets the Padjelantaleden, which it follows for four stages. Here we encounter more fellow hikers and can enjoy sweeping views over easy terrain.

Shortly after Stáddajåhkå, the E1 leaves the Padjelantaleden via a bridge heading south and, for the next two stages, follows the course of the Sårjasjåhka and the shore of Lake Sårjusjaure; the terrain is correspondingly flat and straightforward. Shortly after the border, you have to wade across a river (there is no longer a bridge there); this is no problem, but the riverbed is extremely wide and the water very cold.

The final stage is quite a challenge. The terrain is stony and crosses two passes at an altitude of 1,000 metres; after the second pass, the descent is also quite steep. You may still encounter snow here even in July. Caution is advised! At km 7, you’ll need to wade through a knee-deep river (depth likely to vary depending on the weather and season). This is also the only spot where the markings aren’t immediately obvious, as the path veers off to the right here. Otherwise, the stage is well marked. After crossing the river, the path remains stony for a while, but towards the end of the stage (where the descent becomes steeper once more), you’ll find a solid footpath or grass underfoot again.

From the Ny-Sulitjelma hut, a farm track leads down into the valley to the centre of Sulitjelma, where the supermarket is also located. Distance: 4 km.